Torien

This sibling to Torishiki in Tokyo arrives to NYC by way of NoHo. Blacked-out windows mark its entrance; diners are then buzzed in at street level, both of which add to the mysterious proceedings. A staff member then pulls back a curtain—et voila—you're here. Inside, Executive Chef Hideo An may be found working his skills like a master pianist—turning, fanning, saucing and brushing. It's a pristine workspace and the menu is a tribute to the yakitori tradition. Binchotan charcoal plays as vital a role as the fowl itself, with the aroma becoming one with the space and skewer.Chilled kombu-poached chicken is a succulent first bite. Vegetables, too, get their due—as in charred cipollini onion or agedashi tofu.