Sumibi Kappo Ifuki
Kyoto, Japan
⭐2 Stars
The Experience
From Michelin Guide
Ifuki's distinctive format is Kyoto cuisine with char-grilling added; the essential brazier occupying the centre of the kitchen. The high flame wreathes the food in pungent smoke. In a novel twist, salt-grilled tilefish and channel rockfish are paired with oils of perilla and Japanese pepper. In addition to grilled items, Ifuki offers a wide selection of side dishes. Service is omakase style, but with the freedom of a counter kappo you can add items from the menu as well.
Unique Things
From Visitor Experiences
Here are three unique and unconventional aspects of Sumibi Kappo Ifuki in Kyoto, highlighted by their distinctive features:
1. Sumibi Kappo Cuisine: Charcoal Grilling as a Central Art
Sumibi Kappo Ifuki specializes in "Sumibi Kappo," a style of kappo cuisine where dishes are cooked live in front of guests using binchotan charcoal. This method imparts a rich smoky flavor and aroma that is integral to the dining experience, emphasizing the fragrance and essence of the ingredients through charcoal grilling techniques mastered by the chef during his time in Spain.
2. Intimate and Traditional Setting with a Modern Twist
The restaurant is housed in a renovated traditional machiya (Kyoto townhouse) in the historic Gion district, featuring a small counter seating for 7–9 guests and two private rooms. This intimate setting fosters close interaction between chef and diners, a hallmark of kappo dining, while blending traditional Kyoto aesthetics with innovative culinary craftsmanship.
3. The Philosophy Behind the Name and Culinary Approach
The name "Ifuki" means "to breathe life into things," reflecting the chef's philosophy of revitalizing premium seasonal ingredients through charcoal grilling. The menu includes rare and unconventional ingredients such as blowfish, bear, and yellowfin tuna, all prepared with meticulous attention to detail and presented on antique serving ware, creating a Michelin-starred experience that is both deeply rooted in tradition and uniquely innovative.
Ingredient Stars
From Visitor Experiences
The most honored or signature ingredients at Michelin-starred Sumibi Kappo Ifuki in Kyoto, known for its charcoal-grilled kaiseki cuisine, include:
Tuna (Seared Tuna): A signature dish at Ifuki, the tuna is expertly seared over charcoal, which imparts a rich smoky aroma while preserving moisture and enhancing flavor through the chef’s self-taught grilling techniques.
Bear Meat (Roast Bear): Another standout ingredient, bear meat is roasted over charcoal, showcasing the chef’s originality and mastery of charcoal grilling, offering a unique and robust flavor profile.
Seasonal Local Fish (e.g., Guji Snapper): Used in sashimi and other preparations, these fresh, seasonal fish highlight the restaurant’s commitment to local ingredients and kaiseki tradition, often combined with charcoal grilling or other cooking methods to balance flavors and textures.
Leeks and Other Seasonal Vegetables: Grilled leeks and seasonal vegetables are integral to the dishes, often prepared over charcoal to add depth and smokiness, complementing the seafood and meat components.
Ebi-imo (Taro) and Fuki (Butterbur): Featured in a signature lidded dish (futamono), grilled ebi-imo is topped with fuki tempura in a dashi soup, demonstrating the restaurant’s creative use of seasonal vegetables and traditional Japanese flavors.
These ingredients are carefully selected for their seasonality and quality, then prepared primarily by charcoal grilling, which is central to Ifuki’s culinary identity. The charcoal grilling technique enhances the natural flavors by adding a distinctive smoky aroma while maintaining moisture and texture, making each dish a refined expression of Kyoto’s seasonal bounty.