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Ring the buzzer labelled 'Amma Don' on the door outside, and around 4 hours later you will leave having had a truly immersive experience. This begins in Amma Don itself, a slightly retro cocktail bar where an aperitif and snacks are served, before a bookcase on the wall opens up and you move through to a 17-seat kitchen counter. The cooking itself is rich and hearty, eschewing unnecessary adornment in favour of deriving maximum intensity of flavour, but with a gentle touch when needed – as with the excellent use of Icelandic-grown wasabi.