Okamoto

A chef’s work, says Hidetsugu Okamoto, is a process of tinkering to create something more elaborate, which is why he does not serve decoratively arranged sashimi. Soba with salted and dried grey mullet roe is paired with roasted buckwheat seeds. Pepper-flower hotpot offers a taste comparison between pork and beef, an improvement on a dish learned in his apprenticeship. He likes to serve Okayama flavours such as sardinella, eel and Spanish mackerel on Bizen-ware dishes.

• A star-rated counter where the cooking is built around small seasonal moves rather than decorative sashimi platters.
• Signature ideas include soba with salted, dried grey mullet roe, roasted buckwheat seeds, and a pepper-flower hotpot that plays pork against beef.
• The kitchen leans into Okayama flavours, including sardinella, eel and Spanish mackerel, often served on Bizen-ware.

• Seasonal seafood for sashimi and grilled courses
• Soba paired with salted and dried grey mullet roe, roasted buckwheat seeds
• Pepper-flower hotpot comparing pork and beef
• Okayama flavours such as sardinella, eel and Spanish mackerel
• Bizen-ware plating

Kaiseki-style omakase at the counter. The restaurant offers several course formats, including a daytime omakase and longer lunch and dinner omakase courses. Sample progression runs through seasonal appetisers, soup, sashimi, a grilled dish, small plates, a simmered dish, rice, miso soup, pickles, dessert, sometimes finishing with Japanese sweets.