Noz 17

This downtown sibling of the impressive Upper East original is elegant and inviting.The seven-seat cypress counter is the focal point of the intimate dining room, where an abundance of wood and gently calibrated lighting produce a serene setting.Chef Junichi Matsuzaki is highly skilled and talented. The omakase shows off the chef's free-wheeling style with a procession that keeps the palate stimulated. Otsumami, sashimi and nigiri all show off an impressive display of top-notch product that has been expertly treated and handled. A slice of pearlescent white cuttlefish, intricately scored so it practically melts in the mouth, accompanied by a mouth-coating demitasse of snapper bone broth, are just two of the delights presented to diners.

• Sukiya-style room designed to feel like a traditional sushi-ya, calm and stripped back.
• Two counters, including a four-seat counter billed as one of the smallest omakase counters in New York City.
• Chef Junichi Matsuzaki, Matsu-san, leads the experience, with midweek exceptions noted for the main counter.

Seasonal fish and shellfish imported from Japan, selected daily for nigiri. Shinko, pickled or cured elements in the Edomae tradition, balanced against warm rice and brushed sauces. Hinoki wood and tea-house restraint set the tone as much as the fish.

Intimate Edomae-style omakase in Chelsea with two counters, a seven-seat Hinoki main counter and a four-seat counter. The Bar Menu runs as an amuse bouche, 12 seasonal nigiri, miso soup and tamago, plus a seasonal dessert, for a 15-course progression built from seafood imported from Japan.