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Matan Zaken has thrown out the culinary rulebook! After globetrotting as the private chef to top fashion houses, with stints at Frenchie in London, the George V with Christian Le Squer and Saturne with Sven Chartier, the French-Israeli chef now host you in this astonishing vaulted cellar opposite the Palais Royal. In the convivial atmosphere created by having one enormous table laid for 20 guests, he proposes a Scandinavian-style set menu that features creative cuisine drawing on multiple influences (notably Japanese and Middle Eastern) and a variety of culinary techniques (low-temperature cooking, binchotan charcoal, fermentation, brine pickling etc). Think superb line-caught turbot with chanterelles, finished with a potent blackberry-sherry vinegar-Kampot pepper condiment and a fermented rye miso sauce. Very attentive service.

A single communal table for about 20 guests in a vaulted cellar near Palais Royal, run as a blind, 10-step tasting. The room is designed to feel like a private supper club, with the kitchen working around the table and the pacing closer to a Scandinavian-style sequence than a formal French carte.

Signature threads here are less about one fixed dish and more about technique-driven pairings: line-caught turbot with chanterelles, lifted by a sharp blackberry and sherry vinegar condiment and Kampot pepper, plus a fermented rye miso-style sauce. The menu leans on binchotan grilling, fermentation and brining to build depth, often steering seafood and vegetables through clean, high-contrast acidity and smoke.

10-step blind tasting menu priced at 155€ per person. The format is a single tasting sequence rather than a la carte, with dishes changing to reflect seasonality and technique, including low-temperature cooking, binchotan grilling, fermentation and pickling. Wine pairing option: Accord vin découverte, 5 glasses, 90€.