Mako

Veteran chef B.K. Park has spun out this inspiring shrine to omakase. With nothing but a lone plaque marking its entrance, this Japanese delight can be tough to spot. But once inside, the surrounding din of traffic fades and you’ll be transfixed by the team's dedication to sushi.Mako is a hot ticket, with just 22 seats from which to savor the smartly considered omakase. Throughout the evening, the chef and itamae showcase their style through unique adornments, like sudachi juice and sesame-pepper soy. Equally enticing are cooked items, like braised abalone or black cod with burnt scallion ponzu. Not to be outdone, chawanmushi stocked with mushroom and crab is the essence of elegance. Dessert is not an afterthought, as in sweet potato with whiskey caramel.

What stands out

• A strict omakase shrine: One counter-led experience, built around focus and repetition rather than choice.
• Small room, big pacing: About 22 seats, the meal unfolds as a long sequence of sushi plus cooked plates.
• Technique on display: The itamae work in plain view, with details pushed into garnishes and sauces.

Practicalities

• Address: 731 W. Lake St., Chicago.
• Hours: Wed to Fri 17:45 to 22:30, Sat 16:00 to 22:30, Sun 16:00 to 22:30, closed Mon and Tue.

Signature Ingredients

• Sudachi: Used as a precise citrus accent on nigiri.
• Sesame, pepper and soy: A punchy, savoury seasoning thread.
• Abalone: Served as a slow, braised cooked course within the omakase.
• Black cod: Paired with burnt-scallion ponzu.
• Chawanmushi with mushroom and crab: A silky savoury custard that plays like a signature interlude.