L'Ours

Jacky Ribault (Qui Plume la Lune, in the 11th arrondissement) makes no secret that he considers this Ours (bear), near the château de Vincennes, to be the pinnacle of his career. He designed it in his image, mixing volumes and shapes in a felicitous blend of wood, metal, stone and leather, creating a coherent setting for culinary creations of which he has the secret. Guaranteed to lift your spirits, the food is rich in everything we love in this seasoned chef, as talkative as he is enthusiastic: his instinctive hallmark, exquisite plating and raw inspirations that subtly underscore first-class ingredients. For example, the menu features understated Japanese notes, as well as more traditional fare, such as guinea fowl or brill with risotto of Venere rice in beetroot… A place of culinary pilgrimage if ever there was...

No fixed menu and no pre-declared dishes, the kitchen improvises in-season and asks diners to trust the chef. The room is designed as a personal statement, mixing wood, metal, stone and leather, with cooking that flips between raw, refined bites and comforting French depth.

First-class poultry and fish lead the cooking, including guinea fowl and brill. The kitchen likes dark, nutty grains such as Venere rice, and uses beetroot for sweetness and colour against savoury stocks and roasts. The broader signature is ingredient-led improvisation, built from small producers and artisanal fishing.

Menu-free cooking that changes with the market and the seasons, with guests effectively eating what arrives that day. The style balances raw, precise preparations with richer, more traditional French plates, sometimes touched with quiet Japanese notes. Examples seen on the restaurant’s own description include guinea fowl and brill with Venere rice risotto and beetroot.