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L'Escaleta

Cocentaina, Spain

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2 Stars

The Experience

From Michelin Guide

In this attractive villa on the slopes of Montcabrer (the “magic mountain”), diners get a real sense of the evolution of a family restaurant that has been in business for over 40 years. Here, the culinary memories that shape this restaurant are drawn upon to convey concepts, emotions and stories through its dishes. Eschewing unnecessary frills, chef Kiko Moya complements his à la carte with two tasting menus (Sabor and Saboer) which celebrate the terroir by using the best local and seasonal produce and by drawing on tradition – but this does not mean his cuisine is in any way lacking in creativity. Famous for its “arroces al cuadrado”, a rice speciality served in a rectangular iron tray and then finished in the oven, the painstakingly curated menu is complemented by an excellent wine list. Dishes we particularly enjoyed included the freshwater rice with blue crab and eel, along with the delicious home-made Potrota dessert with baked pear – the latter a rural-rustic recipe that has been superbly brought up to date.

Unique Things

From Visitor Experiences

Basement Beginnings in Cocentaina

  • L’Escaleta began life in a semi-basement in Cocentaina, and guests enter by descending several steps, a feature that gives the dining room its character rather than feeling gimmicky.

Arroces al Cuadrado: A Square of Rice

  • A signature dish is the arroces al cuadrado, rice served in a square/rectangular iron tray and finished in the oven, a presentation that ties memory, terroir, and technique into a distinctive on-plate moment.

Two-Generation Family with a World-Class Wine Program

  • The restaurant remains a family-run operation across two generations, with Kiko Moya at the helm of the kitchen and Alberto Redrado guiding a renowned wine program; Redrado was named Best Sommelier in Spain in 2009, emphasizing terroir-forward pairings that complement the menu.

Ingredient Stars

From Visitor Experiences

Signature Ingredients

  • Arroz (rice): Central to L’Escaleta’s signature dish, arroz al cuadrado, served in a square iron tray and finished in the oven; a terroir-driven expression of Alicante rice that anchors the menu and its memory-forward storytelling.
  • Pine-infused flavors / pine: Mountain dishes are infused with the scent of pine, lending a resinous, woodland aroma that reflects the inland Alicante landscape and the restaurant’s memory-focused approach.
  • Local game meats: A hallmark of the mountain-inspired dishes, sourced from the inland Alicante region to deliver robust, memory-rich savory notes that highlight seasonality and terroir.
  • Citrus: Bright, local citrus accents appear across dishes, providing balance and a signature citrus lift characteristic of the Levantine-influenced cuisine.
  • Seasonal vegetables and produce from Alicante’s terroir: The menu emphasizes seasonal, locally sourced produce that embodies the restaurant’s dedication to memory, place, and authenticity.
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