L'Écrin

“A quest for the perfect blend” could be the motto of the luxurious Écrin located in the Hôtel de Crillon. Sommelier Xavier Thuizat and chef Boris Campanella have reversed their roles, overturning the traditional order of precedence in an unheard of, exciting approach: here the choice of wine determines that of the food! Each diner thus enjoys a personalised experience depending on the wines and number of courses selected. The range of combinations is staggering when you think of the 2,500-strong wine bin. This approach also demonstrates the unorthodoxy, technical agility and perfect harmony between the teams. The chef conjures up elegant dishes, overflowing in character which seek to mirror the wine’s bouquet as much as possible. A unique sensory experience in the finest traditions of French art de vivre.

• A chef and head sommelier partnership that treats pairing as part of the cuisine, including a Japanese green tea programme built to match dishes course by course.
• Set menus that are explicitly flexible in composition, built around premium ingredients and a sauce-forward style.
• A discreet, small room in a landmark Paris palace hotel, designed for a focused, low-distraction meal.

• Premium seafood, used as a frequent backbone for the set menus.
• Carefully sourced meat and poultry, treated with classic French technique.
• Seasonal produce, used for balance, freshness, and structure rather than garnish.
• Sauces, the signature layer that carries much of the restaurant’s identity.

A small, quietly theatrical fine dining room inside the Hôtel de Crillon on Place de la Concorde. Chef Boris Campanella cooks in a classic French register with a modern lightness, tight sauces, premium ingredients, and set menus that run from three to seven courses, changing as the kitchen sees fit. The beverage programme is unusually ambitious, from serious wine pairings to Japanese green tea matchings designed to work like a second sauce.