Léa Linster

Louis Linster is adding a new chapter to this family saga of excellence, which started with his mum, Léa. The first woman to win the Bocuse d’Or award, she built up a distinguished reputation over the years and her son is confirming that elegance and delicacy are part and parcel of the Linster family’s DNA. Louis has seamlessly updated the house signature, courtesy of pared-back recipes that seek above all to get back to basics and to showcase the main ingredient. For example, he may add earthy mushrooms, a miso-flavoured mushroom sauce and a beurre noisette to enhance poached loin of brill. His knack with sauces is second to none, as is his flair for presentation and plating. This quintessentially sleek, classy restaurant is adorned with modern art and boasts a fantastic terrace overlooking the countryside. Léa can be proud of her son.

• A long, single tasting menu that leans modern French, with Japanese pantry notes threaded through the sauces and garnishes.
• A strong fish and shellfish spine, then a single game bird course, finished with clean citrus and dark chocolate desserts.
• The restaurant encourages guests to plan a slow service, the menu is designed as a four-hour run.

• Hamachi, yuzu kosho, basil, radish
• Saibling, dashi, algae, broccoli
• Scallops, Jerusalem artichoke, vin jaune
• Turbot, bergamot, sake, razor clams
• Langoustine, aji amarillo, sea buckthorn, pumpkin
• Quail, salsify, radicchio, Périgord truffle
• Calamansi, blood orange, Guanaja chocolate, passion fruit

Menu L/L, a long tasting menu built around precise fish, shellfish, poultry and fruit-led desserts. Current sample sequence: hamachi with yuzu kosho, basil and radish, saibling with dashi, algae and broccoli, scallops with Jerusalem artichoke, onions and vin jaune, turbot with bergamot, sake and razor clams, langoustine with aji amarillo, sea buckthorn and pumpkin, quail with salsify, radicchio and Périgord truffle, fennel with calamansi and blood orange, banana with Guanaja 70%, passion fruit and peanut. EUR 240, or EUR 220 without the langoustine. Allow around four hours.