Le Saint Hilaire

Chef Sébastien Rath (formerly of le Riche in Alès) and his spouse Gwladys are even closer to the Cévennes (whose wild herbs the chef adores) since they moved to this old inn with a garden terrace and a lovely, light dining room decorated in soft colours. The chef’s love of local produce has not wavered, depicted by the ingredients (monkfish from small fishing boats of Grau-du-Roi, veal from Aveyron and fruit from the surrounding orchards), the cutlery on the tables and even the jeans manufactured in Lozère for his team. The chef’s two blind menus reveal a seasonal inspiration, which echoes the couple’s sincerity and steadfast commitment to their region, illustrated by monkfish, aubergines, miso seasoning and lemon sauce.

• A light, soft-coloured dining room with a garden terrace, close to the Cévennes and built for long lunches in warm weather.
• Three surprise menus, presented as movements, with custom pairings that can run wine-forward or non-alcoholic, teas, kombuchas and local craft beers.
• Monthly cooking workshops hosted in the restaurant kitchen, designed as hands-on technique and local-produce sessions.

Ingredient anchors name-checked in the house portrait include trout from Fumades, pigeon from Costières, monkfish from the Grau-du-Roi small-boat fleet, and orchard fruit, plus wild Cévennes herbs used as aromatic lift. The cooking tends to pair clean local proteins with vegetables and sharp, modern sauces, for example monkfish with aubergines, miso seasoning and a lemon sauce.

A one-star dining room in Saint-Hilaire-de-Brethmas, outside Alès, built around surprise menus that change with the season. Sébastien Rath cooks modern French plates with a strong local pull, from small-boat fish to Cévennes herbs, and the restaurant also holds a Green Star for its sourcing and waste-reduction focus. The house format is three evolving culinary routes, designed as a guided experience rather than a printed, fixed menu.