Le Gabriel - La Réserve Paris
Paris, France
⭐3 Stars
The Experience
From Michelin Guide
Just a block from the Champs-Élysées, this restaurant is set in the elegant and luxurious La Réserve. Refinement is the name of the game in this 19C Napoleon III-style mansion done out in magnificent materials, such as gilt Spanish leather and featuring Versailles parquet flooring, as per Jacques Garcia's redesign. Jérôme Banctel asserts his unique culinary personality with two tasting menus: Virée, a tribute to his native Brittany, and Périple, an invitation to travel the world – taking in Japan, as well as Turkey, where the chef discovered the incomparable textures produced by cooking with lime water; there is also a game menu in season. These high-calibre menus conjure up a vast range of sensations and flavours – whether tart or sweet and sour, or drawing on spices or seafood. And his talent as a cosmopolitan alchemist enables him to draw everything together harmoniously. The full-bodied, concentrated sauces are the best way to understand this cuisine, which may be highly technical but it keeps that under wraps. The sand carrot with peppery ginger, and the artichoke heart with cherry blossom vinegar deserve a special mention. An exceptional mealtime.
Unique Things
From Visitor Experiences
Here are three unique and unconventional aspects of the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Gabriel at La Réserve Paris:
1. Location and Ambiance Rooted in History and Opulence
Le Gabriel is housed in a building once occupied by Pierre Cardin, adding an exclusive historical allure. The dining room features high ceilings and natural light from the Champs Elysée gardens, designed by Jacques Garcia to blend traditional elegance with contemporary style. The atmosphere resembles an exclusive private club more than a typical hotel restaurant, with discreet service through secret doors and a cozy bar, Le Gaspard, that guests find hard to leave.
2. Culinary Innovation with Japanese Influence
Chef Jérôme Banctel, who earned Le Gabriel its 3 Michelin stars, masterfully reinterprets French classics by incorporating Japanese flavors and techniques. A signature dish exemplifying this is ‘Le Saumon,’ where salmon is marinated in miso for five days and served with delicate accompaniments like daikon and smoked aubergine, showcasing a fusion of French haute cuisine with Japanese subtlety.
3. Intimate and Carefully Curated Dining Experience
Le Gabriel offers a very intimate setting with only nine well-spaced tables in the dining room, creating a serene and stately environment. The best seat, 5bis, offers an all-encompassing view of the restaurant and kitchen activity. The restaurant emphasizes authenticity, simplicity, and new gourmet experiences, with a cheerful yet informal atmosphere that contrasts with its luxurious surroundings.
These elements combine to make Le Gabriel a distinctive destination in Parisian fine dining.
Ingredient Stars
From Visitor Experiences
- Blue Lobster (Homard Bleu)
Cooked over binchotan charcoal, this ingredient is a centerpiece of Chef Banctel’s menu, prized for its sweet, delicate flavor and luxurious texture. The use of binchotan charcoal imparts a subtle smokiness, elevating the lobster’s natural taste. - Mackerel (Maquereau)
Served with sea urchin and bourride sauce, the mackerel is encased in cedar leaves and cooked over hot pebbles, then basted with white wine broth. The dish highlights the fish’s rich, oily character, balanced by the creamy, aromatic sauce and the briny pop of sea urchin. - Sea Urchin (Oursin)
Used as a topping for mackerel, sea urchin adds a creamy, oceanic flavor that complements the robust fish and the garlic-ginger-infused bourride sauce, creating a layered, luxurious experience. - Plump Chicken (Poularde de Mayenne)
Marinated in Breton lait ribot (fermented buttermilk), poached until tender, and crisped to perfection. The chicken is served with a pea tartlet and wild garlic, showcasing the chef’s Breton inspiration and the importance of terroir in his cuisine. - Cuttlefish Ink (Encre de Seiche)
Used in squid tagliatelle with caviar, cuttlefish ink provides a deep, briny flavor and striking color, pairing with the salty pop of caviar and a rich duck jus for a complex, elegant dish.