Kyoto, Japan
From Michelin Guide
‘Food has no borders’, declares the creed of Kikunoi. Carrying on the spirit of his brother, who runs Kikunoi Roan’s parent restaurant, Yoshiharu Murata seeks out new flavours using Western ingredients such as truffles and olive oil. In Kyoto restaurants, inclusion of a tea room is considered de rigueur, so while Kikunoi Roan sports a new style of counter and kitchen, the upper floor is equipped with a tea room, called Roan.
From Visitor Experiences
Here are three unique or unconventional aspects of the Michelin-starred restaurant Kikunoi Roan in Kyoto:
1. Kaiseki Cuisine Served at a Counter
Kikunoi Roan was one of the first restaurants to serve authentic Kaiseki cuisine at a counter, allowing diners to witness the chefs’ swift and delicate movements up close. This proximity ensures every dish is served at its optimal temperature and freshness, which is quite different from the traditional private room dining style of its parent restaurant, Kikunoi.
2. Inclusion of a Traditional Tea Room on the Upper Floor
While many Kyoto restaurants consider having a tea room a status symbol, Kikunoi Roan’s upper floor features a tea room designed by Sotoji Nakamura, a leading architect of sukiya-style constructions with tea house aesthetics. This tea room, called Roan, complements the modern counter dining below with a traditional and serene space, blending contemporary and classical Japanese dining experiences.
3. Fusion of Western Ingredients with Traditional Kyoto Kaiseki
Chef Yoshiharu Murata, who leads Kikunoi Roan, embraces the philosophy that "food has no borders" by incorporating Western ingredients such as truffles and olive oil into the traditional Kyoto Kaiseki framework. This innovative approach broadens the flavor profile while respecting the seasonal and artistic presentation of Kaiseki cuisine.
From Visitor Experiences
The most honored or signature ingredients at the Michelin-starred restaurant Kikunoi Roan in Kyoto include:
Kafuku Kombu (kelp): This high-grade kombu from Fukui Prefecture is essential for making the delicate dashi broth that forms the foundation of Japanese cuisine at Roan. It is combined with premium bonito flakes to create a refined umami base.
Honkare Katsuobushi (bonito flakes): Sourced from Makurazaki, Kagoshima Prefecture, these prized bonito flakes are used alongside kombu to produce the restaurant's signature dashi, contributing deep, smoky umami flavors.
Kyoto Vegetables: Delivered fresh from contracted farmers and local sources like Ohara, seasonal Kyoto vegetables such as bamboo shoots, Kintoki red carrots, carrot tops, warabi bracken, and udo are featured prominently. They are used in elegant preparations like mustard sesame sauce and artistic presentations in the hassun course.
Fresh Seafood from Awaji and Seto Inland Sea: Daily deliveries include sea bream, sawara (Spanish mackerel), kuruma ebi shrimp, and akagai (red clams). These ingredients highlight the coastal bounty and are prepared with great care, such as tilefish (guji) breaded with dried mullet roe and paired with donko shiitake mushrooms.
Wagyu Beef: Featured in some dishes, wagyu is served in delicate slices, often accompanied by seasonal leaves and mushrooms, showcasing the harmony between rich meat and subtle plant flavors.
These ingredients are not only chosen for their exceptional quality but also for their seasonality and provenance, reflecting the chefs' deep connection with producers and farmers, which is central to Kikunoi Roan's culinary philosophy. Signature dishes often emphasize the purity and seasonality of these ingredients, such as the steamed rice with bamboo shoots, the layered hassun course with mountain and sea delicacies, and the yakimono grilled tilefish with shiitake mushrooms.
Current Offerings & Prices