Hostellerie St-Nicolas

The high-flying talents of Michael Vanderhaeghe and his father Franky set the scene in this temple to fine dining. Knockout sauces and a superlative range of local produce such as hop shoots and Steenvoorde pigeon bear witness to the know-how of this hostelry, that has been a culinary landmark for going on 25 years. Original touches and exotic techniques ensure that the menu continues to evolve and progress. How about slowly cooked free-range chicken coated in a hazelnut sauce and a spicy Flanders cheese, paired with a frothy kohlrabi mousse rich in earthy notes. You will also be surprised by an ordinary looking sweetbread in flaky pastry, which turns out to be stuffed in foie gras and truffles and flanked by a meaty gravy that cleverly blends all these different flavours into a harmonious dish. Multi-facetted culinary creativity and a clever blend of old and new depicts the work of the father and son team. The trendy interior of this charming, luxurious villa, extended by a peaceful garden, provides the perfect foil to this splendid culinary experience. Not far away, the Vanderhaeghe family’s hotel, overflowing in elegant details, is ideal for longer stays.

• Sauce craft as the main event: big reductions and precise gravies are the backbone, not an afterthought.
• Local product, handled with swagger: hop shoots, pigeon and North Sea fish appear in dishes that feel rooted and highly finished.
• A two-generation kitchen: father and son cooking together, with a mature dining-room rhythm and a serious drinks programme, including alcohol-free pairings.

Ingredient stars

• Hop shoots: a local spring marker, used as a headline ingredient.
• Steenvoorde pigeon: smoked on hay, served with Robuchon-style potato purée, celeriac, dates and fortified-wine sauces.
• North Sea fish: local fish with mustard and Flandrien cheese crust, backed by whey and wild-garlic jus.
• Sweetbreads: sometimes hidden inside flaky pastry with foie gras and truffle, then pushed with a meaty gravy.
• Free-range chicken, hazelnut, Flanders cheese: a signature combination that shows the kitchen’s sauce-first style.

Format

• Tasting menus, plus a lunch menu, in a villa with garden, close to Ypres.
• The cooking is family-led, father and son in the kitchen, with an experienced front of house and a deep cellar, including alcohol-free pairings.

What to expect

• Strong, glossy sauce work and a tight focus on local produce.
• Hop shoots, Steenvoorde pigeon, and North Sea fish show up as signature threads.

Menus (as listed by Gault&Millau)

• Lunch menu: €65
• Saturday lunch all-in (4 courses): €120
• 5-course menu: €130
• 7-course menu: €150