Tokyo, Japan
From Michelin Guide
It is now over a decade since Lionel Beccat left his native France to take to a new stage in Japan. He travelled extensively in Japan, feeling the earth, breathing its natural world through his skin, to know its foodstuffs and culture intimately. Two cultures coexist inside his soul, stirring a new terroir in his imagination. The cuisine that inspiration creates is as subtle and beautiful as a work of art.
From Visitor Experiences
Fusion of French Technique with Japanese Ingredients and Philosophy
ESqUISSE uniquely blends classical French culinary techniques with Japanese produce and methods, creating a cuisine that is both progressive and gentle. The chef Lionel Beccat uses local, seasonal Japanese ingredients to influence flavors while maintaining French culinary traditions, resulting in dishes that express his personal philosophy and sensibility.
The Concept of "Sketch" and Spontaneous Menus
The restaurant’s name, Esquisse, means "sketch" in French, symbolizing unrestrained creativity and fluidity. The menu is not fixed but changes daily based on inspiration and available ingredients, described as a ‘menu spontané’ or omakase-style French dégustation. This approach allows each dining experience to be unique and artistic, like a chef’s sketch on a canvas.
Interior Design Reflecting Nature’s Power and Calm
The restaurant’s interior underwent a renovation to adopt a chic style that conveys the earth’s power. A feature wall created by traditional plaster artisan Naoki Kusumi uses multiple layers of plaster to reveal sand and pebbles, symbolizing nature’s blessings of calm and tempest. The artwork at the entrance uses soil to express nature’s duality, integrating natural elements into the dining atmosphere.
From Visitor Experiences
The most honored or signature ingredients at the Michelin-starred restaurant ESqUISSE in Tokyo include:
Kelp: Used for marinating spiny lobster, kelp imparts a deep umami flavor that reflects Japanese culinary sensibilities, enhancing the seafood's natural sweetness in a dish paired with bitter greens, fermented raspberry paste, and wild anise foam in a wild fennel dashi broth.
Turnip: A key ingredient in a signature dish where the turnip is poached in its own liquor or cooked in chicken soup, often accompanied by kinome (young sansho pepper leaves) and white truffle, showcasing delicate aromatics and purity of flavor.
Cuttlefish: Briefly cooked in squid broth enriched with sake lees and fermented butter, cuttlefish is prepared to highlight its essence and texture, demonstrating the fusion of French technique and Japanese ingredients.
Shirako (cod milt): Featured in a visually stunning dish combined with cauliflower, endive, black garlic, and Indonesian pepper, the pan-fried shirako is creamy and rich, emphasizing luxurious textures and balanced flavors.
Abalone: Served with abalone liver sauce, shiso, fennel, and yuzu salt, abalone is prized for its bouncy texture and light, refined flavors that align with the restaurant's focus on seasonal and pure ingredients.
These ingredients are carefully selected and prepared to balance French culinary techniques with Japanese seasonal and regional elements, creating dishes that emphasize subtle contrasts and harmonious interplay of textures and flavors.
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