Alter

Alter means “different” or “other”, which illustrates Jo Grootaers’ career. He was just 19 when he became the chef of the Altermezzo brasserie, gradually forging his own culinary signature to the point of being awarded a Michelin star. Today he and his partner, Lana in charge of the front-of-house, are at the helm of this restaurant, established in the former village school, which has been treated to a hip, designer makeover. The couple’s shared passion can be tasted in the fine wines and remarkably delicate, creative cuisine. The chef’s attention to detail and genuine passion for the ingredient are particularly notable in the exquisite plating. For example, raw langoustine is presented in a tartlet with wafer-thin slices of pumpkin, a subtle bitter crème of mandarin, a drizzle of verbena oil and iced pearls made from langoustine bisque. In addition to cutting-edge precision, the chef firmly believes that sauces should be tasty and generous. Your meal will be rounded off with a tea ceremony to soothe and pamper your tastebuds. Jo Grootaers’ youthful enthusiasm is maturing and blossoming thanks to immaculate craftsmanship.

Set in the former village school of Riksingen, Alter is a chef led dining room where Jo Grootaers builds menus around high contrast, tightly plated dishes, then finishes the meal with a tea ceremony. The format is straightforward, Small, Big, and Full experience menus plus a weekday market menu, but the cooking pushes playful combinations, citrus and herbs against shellfish, spice against offal, with sauces that arrive bold and ample. Front of house is run with the same focus, a tight pairing programme, non alcoholic options, and an intimate room designed for long, quiet dinners.

Signature ingredients and recurring pairings: langoustine, turbot, veal sweetbreads, milk fed pig, and vivid seasonal produce used for sharp, readable plates, pumpkin, mandarin, verbena, courgette, peas, wild garlic. Sauces lean generous and flavour forward rather than minimalist reductions.

Tasting menus: Small €100, Big €130, Full €160 (Fri and Sat dinner, and holidays: Big or Full only). Includes teasers, bread, and tea ceremony. Unlimited water €8 per person.

Example dishes from the current menu: gambero rosso with tomato, rocket, and almond, marigold egg with green beans, peas, and wild garlic, turbot with verbena, cockles, and courgette, veal sweetbreads with vadouvan and apricot, milk fed pig with BBQ aubergine, anchovy, and fig leaf. Desserts include cherry with sakura, jasmine, and rice, plus classics like Dame Blanche.

Market menu: Thursday lunch and dinner, and Friday lunch (excluding holidays), 3 courses based on market availability, €100 all in including water, a glass of white, a glass of red, and tea ceremony.